In bed with Hermann Moser – Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from Kremstal
Austrian wines have a special place in my heart. There is no particular reason for this, it just happens to me that when I am poured a glass of Grüner veltliner, or a Zweigelt blended with Blaufrankisch for example, I am always in a good mood. It is an intrinsic feeling that I cannot explain.
In 2018, I visited the wine regions around Vienna and during that trip, too, I was time and again so incredibly surprised by the wines!
For this article, I am delving into one of Austria’s smaller wine regions. The Kremstal. Located next to the famous Wachau, this area is not inferior in quality. In fact, those who may find Wachau wines a bit expensive, can rejoice at the price/quality ratio of the Kremstal wines.
The Kremstal covers 2368 hectares of vineyards and is divided into three zones. The area was awarded the DAC status in 2007 and produces spicy Grüner Veltliners and elegant Rieslings. Besides Kremstal DAC, there is also Kremstal DAC Reserve. The Reserve wine has a minimum alcohol content of 13% and is more robust in style.
This special area has a soft climate, as the location of the valley offers protection from the harsh wind from the north and the warm wind from the east provides mild temperatures. The wines are therefore ripe and aromatic.
Weingut Hermann Moser
Weingut Hermann Moser has been run by Martin and Carmen Moser since 2002 (the family business has been around for 300 years and has produced wines since 1874). To describe themselves to me they said they love each other, their wine business and life in its entirety. Joie de vivre is their motto.
Weingut Hermann Moser consists of 22 hectares. The vineyards are located in the small village of Rohrendorf, east of the city of Krems, along the Danube River.
Winemaker Martin Moser is known for his skill in growing Grüner veltliner on loess soil – he always receives great awards for his wines – but his vineyards also grow Riesling, Gelber Muskateller, Chardonnay and some Zweigelt.
Distinctive for the winery is the use of a homemade compost to keep the soil healthy. The work is done with respect for nature and pesticides are banned.
For this bed session, I tasted Martin’s world-famous Grüner Veltliners. What all the wines have in common is a complexity that is simply undeniable. The glass buzzes with energy. Tropical fruit along with spiciness and great salinity. Honey and juiciness are present in all wines. The acidity is invigorating and never aggressive. Extreme elegance is found in all wines.
Grüner Veltliner Der Löss 2019 – Kremstal DAC Reserve
Here is the tasting note of my favourite, the Grüner Veltliner Der Löss 2019 – Kremstal DAC Reserve.
A complex nose of tropical fruits, candied pineapple and mango. Aromatic green herbs, white flowers. Fresh chamomile, some honey. A crackling texture, juicy and super elegant acidity. A bed companion you can never get enough of.